07/11/19: Day 8

We are now on land, and as a dive crazy bunch fresh off a 7 day dive cruise with 13 dives under our belt, we needed a gradual transition before we moved to more land based activities. So Double dive please!!!

That didn't include Anna, who had been nurturing some little boo boos throughout the trip, and needed some time to regain her strength for the next day's activity, and therefore opted for a sleep in, followed by a massage at the lodge.

Pierre had contacted the owner of Blue Vision Dive Center for general dive related queries before our trip and the swift and always helpful answers had convinced us that they were the team to join. Owner came to pick us up personally from our lodge at 7.30 and brought us to his dive centre where we were introduced to the divemasters who would be our guides for the day. Very friendly staff who immediatey put us at ease.

On the way, whale shark in sight again!!! We couldn't believe our luck! Had we hit the jackpot on 2 consecutive days?????!!!????

As we geared up, ready to dive in, a speed boat that had spotted the whale shark as well just zeroed in on the animal full gas, and scared it away...!!! BASTARD...!!! These guys ruined it for EVERYONE...!!!

First dive on 'les arches', which consists of a huge dome structure, covered in large part with mushroom like corals. At the base there are 3 interconnected openings that effectively form arches, after which the site was named. Plenty of fish in the arches, with some nice sea fans protecting the entrances. Just as we were about to end the dive, cherry on the cake, a giant leopard eel (my first ever) was spotted by the dive master. We sadly had to say our farewells to Michel's wonky camera which, on its death bed, recorded stunning images of the leopard eel!

Second dive was on Chameau (same site we had done on our last day on the Cat). Again, my gopro decided to act up, so ended up being a lighting assistant to Pierre with my video lights, hovering literally centimeters above him for extended periods as we followed the marine life. Our UW pairing apparently made quite the impression on the other divers, who were stunned by the level of our fine buoyancy control and perfect synchronicity.

Quick shower at the lodges, and we're out with Anna (minus Michel this time) for a walk around in Hellville, the largest town in Nosy Be.

As we're waiting for a taxi by the side of the road, a tuk tuk, with an already full load of passengers stopped by. The driver seemed to want us to board his vehicle, which neither Anna nor myself, could comprehend. Excluding the driver, the max no of passengers a tuk tuk is allowed to carry is 3! This one already had 4, and my brain just could not register how the 3 of us could fit in! Pierre who has had prior experience with Tuk tuks in other third world countries, insisted that we got in, and following a hilarious musical chair, one of the passengers got off, and the 3 of us somehow managed to squeeze in. Pierre to the left and an old guy to the right of the driver in front, Anna, myself and 2 ladies at the back! We tried 'single cheeking' it each at the back, but could not make it work, at which point the 2 other ladies decided they would take turns sitting on top of each other!!!! Having large buttocks is definitely a major hindrance in Tuk Tuk Land!

It's a wonder we didn't crash each time we hit a major pothole, which were countless along this battered road!

Once the first lady passenger at the back got dropped off, the driver sent the old guy with us at the back, and he ended up sitting on the lap of the other lady! The other passengers exited the carriage just in time for police control, by which time, the driver was no longer in comtempt of the local road traffic regulations. It also meant we had the tuk tuk all to ourselves, which turned

comfortable enough for yours truly to have a nap, despite the very bumpy ride!

The tuk tuk adventure ended up lasting over an hour and costing us 10K arias in total (About Rs 100!!!), down from the 40K initially requested by the driver!

Leisurely stroll in the streets of Hellville stopping every so often to check out shops on the way. Nothing special to report; there are lots of people and buildings, not my cuppa tea.

We decided not to renew the tuk tuk session for the way back, and Pierre duly negotiated with a random taxi driver to include a stop at 'Le Bazaar des Arts', a reputed crafts market.

Alain, the driver is what you could describe as a very dynamic and resourceful character; Long queue at the petrol station, no issue, he parks the car by the road side, takes out an empty gallon container, bypasses the queue, and he's back in no time. Huge peak time traffic? Not a problem either, he engages in the tiniest broken side roads and bypasses it altogether. Ohh...and it seems he also runs a chicken business from the back of his car boot! Before we boarded his car, an old run down Renault (I think Megane) with doors that can only be opened from the inside, he told us that he had a quick business to attend to before we could set off. Left us for a couple of minutes, and hey presto, came back with a fellow country man, who promptly offloaded his cargo of a dozen live chicken, all tied at the feet and bundled together, a bit like vegetables are by the stalk at the local market.

Truly pooped, quick slightly overcooked Zebu brochettes with fries at the lodge, before we collapse.